![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:14 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
The dumb son of a f%^^& b*&^% of a previous owner, over torqued everything from the bolts that hold the fuel filter on to the rear diff refilling and draining ports. Even a breaker bar isn't moving them after they have been soaked with WD40. Here is a Toyota trophy truck with a 1UZ-FE based 302 stroker for your time:
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:15 |
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Heat. PB Blaster. A bigger breaker bar.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:15 |
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Ditch the WD40 and use PB Blaster. It's broken some seriously tight bolts for me in the past.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:17 |
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Would a propane torch work?
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:18 |
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Fuck. I don't want to go to town again. Dammit.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:18 |
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That's what I use when I have done it. Just make sure it isn't near anything that will melt.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:19 |
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Wait, you're not supposed to turn every screw until it's digging into whatever object it's in?
... whoops. #MeFrom1995-2014
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:20 |
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That, and I wasn't planning on using it for the fuel filter.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:21 |
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No. If you don't have a torque wrench and it isn't something that will kill you if it falls off, just tighten til it feels tight enough. Don't keep tightening.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:23 |
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another vote for:
1) getting rid of WD40 - replace with PB Blaster or Kroil (or AeroKroil) - I use both, prefer Kroil for reasons I can't articulate
2) heat. propane torch MIGHT work. MAPP would be better, some sort of oxy-fuel best
3) more leverage - bigger breaker bar is always good to have. extend w/ a piece of pipe for OMG leverage. I've moved some TIGHT fasteners with my 24" breaker bar + 4 feet of pipe + my fat ass
I'll also put this in - use 6 point sockets on your stubborn fasteners. They're less likely to slip and round off than 12 point
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:23 |
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A cheater bar
Put some kind of pipe around the breaker bar, anything hollow metal will do. It makes it even longer for some more leverage
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:24 |
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When all else fails...
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:25 |
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If you have some ATF sitting around you can mix it 1:1 with Acetone and spray it on. Works amazingly well.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:28 |
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Note: do not use heat while spraying PB blaster at the same time.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:35 |
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In addition to what others are saying, give the fastener a sharp, hard whack with a hammer. Not a bunch of little taps, but two or three swift, heavy hits with the biggest hammer that you can swing in there. It sends shockwaves through the threads that can sometimes break the bond between them, at least enough so that a breaker bar will be effective.
Obviously, don't do it if it's going to damage the fastener's head, or if it's in a brittle aluminum casting or something.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:37 |
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I feel your pain and agree with the PB recommendations. http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/im-going-to-tr…
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:44 |
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Why? Flamethrowers are cool!
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:46 |
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Ouch, luckily mine is just needed maintenance that has been put off for long enough. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to the parts store.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:47 |
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Thermite might do the trick.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:50 |
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Oh god. Over torque. Just cringing at the thought, especially if it ever happens on one of my helicopters. What's the bolt supposed to be torqued to?
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:52 |
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^This. Hammers work really well for this. Deadblow hammers shouldn't damage your tools, but a metal hammer will work better.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 15:56 |
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Not sure. I just know by the bent-ish metal that the dumbass went a little too far.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 16:28 |
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If all else fails go with air tools. I had to undo the crank pulley on a 23 year old Subaru. Ended up having to use a 800 lb-ft air drill on it. Even with that it took quite a few hits to knock it loose. I felt shitty paying so much for it, but I haven't had to worry about tight bolts since. Works great on axle nuts too.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 16:38 |
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Nuts (as opposed to bolts) can of course be split if necessary.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 16:44 |
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302 stroker 1UZ?
Sweet. Jesus.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:11 |
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Here's a little info on it: http://www.rkmcca.com/car/1994-Toyot…
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:16 |
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Thank you!
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:21 |
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It makes me kind of want a 1UZ for my 4Runner now. Only problem is that it is just wide enough to make A/C problematic. In Florida A/C is a must to prevent swamp ass.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:23 |
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I know people have squeezed them into the engine bay. I don't know much about that swap, I do know people like them in S13s, and they fit beautifully.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:26 |
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Yeah, I know it can be done because when I was originally looking for a first car I found a one. It didn't have A/C and I don't trust swaps done in Billie T. Bubba's garage in some small town near Cullman, Al, so it was a no go.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 17:49 |
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A quick google search also says they fit. I bet you can find a forum thread or something where someone made them fit.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 18:19 |
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It's not just if they fit, it's also do all the accessories fit. I'm sure there is a way to fabricate it, I just wonder how much easier a uncreative LSx swap would be.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 18:30 |
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Based on sizes it is about the same size as a 1UZ, give or take a few.
These guys are talking about cooling, the first post says he runs the 1UZ with his air conditioner on no problem! So it is possible. . . probably.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 18:39 |
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Sweet. This is actually probably a better swap, due to the fact that it is a bit less torque than an LS. Since I plan on running a Toyota 5-speed, that's a big deal. Good thing LS400's are pretty cheap. Someday this will probably happen. A new daily driver will have to happen first though.
![]() 07/26/2014 at 20:30 |
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Oxy-Acetylene torch to break the rust, where you can. Obviously don't use it on the fuel filter bolts.
![]() 07/29/2014 at 12:00 |
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Heat! I usually use a mapp gas torch. Hit the bolt for 30 seconds, and like magic, it comes out with a bit of force.